Enterprise Nation

If you’re considering buying a garden office, studio or workshop, there are four main aspects to be looking out for; insulation, glazing, heating (& lighting) and finishes and materials. Neil Johnston of Vivid Green offers advice on each.

Insulation

Insulation is fundamental; you will be sitting in an isolated structure with no rooms around you so it’s essential there is sufficient insulation to keep you warm in Winter and cool in Summer.  My advice is there should be at least as much insulation as is required for a new house, if not more.  Gardens can also be surprisingly noisy: children, building work and traffic in particular so, if the insulation can reduce this too, that’s a bonus.

There are many different types of insulation on the market with many claims about the sustainability of the different types.  For an unbiased guide, check out www.greenspec.co.uk

Glazing

You will probably want a good deal of glass to create a light interior but be careful there is not so much that you roast in Summer.  It is surprising how little glass you need to give sufficient light and generate a little solar gain when the sun is shining.  If some of the windows face South, it is helpful to have a good overhang on the roof or a brise-soleil to prevent overheating in the height of Summer. 

Also consider the security of the glazing, especially if you are leaving valuable equipment in the building. Have a look at the locks on doors and windows; are doors triple point locking?  Can the windows be locked at all and ideally, can they be locked in a slightly open position?

Heating

Heating options are many and varied but one of the simplest and most comfortable is underfloor electric heating which gives a very even temperature and will allow you to set the thermostat several degrees below the norm.  Other benefits include:

• no wall space lost to radiators/heaters
• no hot surfaces
• even temperature throughout
• compatible with almost any flooring

If close to the house it may be possible to install a wet heating system ie: underfloor hot water heating which, depending on the efficiency of the boiler may be a very economical solution.

Lighting

Lighting a well designed building providing plenty of natural light is not a major concern and, except for winter, artificial light should not be needed during daylight hours.  If you want stylish, low energy lighting then there is now a good choice including lights from these two companies: http://www.tp24.com  and http://www.greenled.co.uk

Internal finishes

On the inside, one of the major considerations is fire resistance.  In most cases garden buildings do not have to comply with Building Regulations and provide 30 minute fire resistance.  However, there may be circumstance where you would prefer the additional peace of mind which comes from a fire resistant interior.  A fireboard/plasterboard finish is the normal choice and will give a high quality surface which allows cabling and sockets to be recessed.  Other options are available and special finishes such as pin board can be very useful.  Sundeala pin board is made from 100% recycled newsprint.

Flooring is an important consideration too.  Even with door mats and asking visitors to remove their shoes, there is the potential for the floor to get wet and muddy.  Carpet is, therefore, generally not a good idea but rubber or one of the modern linoleum products is a practical alternative.  Relatively cheap, easy to clean and hard wearing.  Wood can also be good though grit and dirt can quickly scratch the surface.  For a hardwearing surface, rubber is a good choice with a huge range of colours and patterns available.

External finishes and materials

Many garden buildings are clad in timber but check to see what type of timber is used and how much maintenance will be required.  Softwood, especially if it needs repainting or treating every other year, may not be as cheap as it seems in the long run.  Most people have enough work maintaining their house without spending weekends maintaining another building!  A durable timber like Cedar will require no treatment and even cheaper options such as Douglas Fir and Larch which are semi-durable will last for 15-20 years without treatment and much longer with the occasional coat of preservative.

If the guttering is out of sight then black plastic is perfectly adequate but where the guttering and downpipe are visible, galvanised steel is an attractive and long lasting alternative.

Neil Johnston, Vivid Green